
A while back, I posted this portrait of an Elizabethan lady (by William Segar c. 1595), commenting in an off-handed sort of way that she seemed to be clutching a dead monkey by the neck. Well, it's definitely dead, but it isn't a monkey, as a knowledgeable reader has pointed out. Stephen G. from Australia informs me that the animal is probably a "fur tippett," a clothing accessory made from animal fur or, in this case, from an entire dead animal.
More specifically, this is probably a marten or a sable, its head and paws replaced by gold forms and encrusted with jewels. Here's a close-up:
Accessories of this sort were sixteenth-century fashion statements known as zibellini (sing. zibellino):
This fashion began in the north of Italy [reportedly invented by the d'Este sisters -- Beatrice and Isabella] in the beginning of the sixteenth century, and spread from there through Europe and England. England seemed to be a little slow in taking up this fashion as it was not until 1584 that Elizabeth I came in[to] possession of one as a New [Y]ear's gift from the Earl of Leicester.
Zibellini was the entire pelt of an animal, usually marten or sable, but also ermine and lynx were used, and was carried in the hand, over the shoulder or around the neck, and was suspended from a gold chain attached to a girdle. The head and feet of which were often bejewelled replacements for the animals original body parts. There are accounts of clocks being set into the heads. Gold and silver were the norm for the head and feet of the Zibellini, but crystal and jet were also used. Zibellini were further embellished with diamonds, rubies, pearls and enamel work.
Zibellini were used as status symbols, and as symbols of fecundity. Zibellini fetched an astounding price. As previously mentioned they could be heavily embellished. Mart[e]n and sable Zibellini were connected to fecundity and were popular wedding gifts, and featured in dowries. Lynx Zibellini were associated with chastity. Artist[s] of the time used the symbolism of the Zibellini in their work for patrons to convey messages. -- The Muff in Sixteenth Century Dress
Here is a remarkably ornate marten's head (intended for wear on a zibellino) from the collection of the Walters Art Museum:
The museum notes read:
This jeweled marten's head is nearly identical to that attached to the fur held by the countess in Veronese's portrait of Countess da Porto (Walters 37.541) and is displayed here in a similar way. The animal was associated with childbirth, and wearing its fur was believed to increase a woman's fertility and protect her during pregnancy. Since antiquity, the marten had been thought to conceive through its ear or mouth (and therefore chastely). The dove on the creature's nose may be a symbol of the Holy Ghost and further allude to Mary's miraculous conception. This would add to the amulet's protective powers.


Zibellini? So, that's the etymology for 'Bling'...
Posted by: MC | March 26, 2008 at 01:12 PM
Not just Bling.. but Fecund Bling.. That just has the ugliest sound to it...
Posted by: Jake | March 26, 2008 at 03:52 PM